Touring Ted

2 wheels & no sense. My Motorcycle travel blog.
30.01.2011

After leaving our hosts in Blantyre, James and I headed to the border of Mozambique. We were almost there when I got pulled over for speeding… I might have been speeding, I’m not sure. The dodgy cop didn’t know either but he thought it was worth a punt.

The usual routine of bartering for bribes was avoided as I faked a case of Malaria and my desperation to get to a clinic for a test.  They let me go immediately and luckily couldn’t see James laughing under his helmet..

The border was smooth and easy like usual now. No problems at all once you get used to the hoards of money changers and hawkers…

We got to the town of Tete a couple of hours later and crossed the infamously crowded Zambezi Bridge in no time at all and looked for accommodation. As the only campsite was shut down, we ended up pitching our tents in a bar/motel car park!! Nice!!

We spent our first night battling with our Portuguese (yes they speak it in Mozambique) and getting used to the insufferable heat… Mozambique seems so much more developed than the rest of Africa. The signs of getting South I guess. ATMs are everywhere, internet, good food etc etc. And the prices were rising too.

Another days ride and we were in Chimoio and the “pink Papaya” hostel. Nice, but nothing special… The same old routine of wandering around town, doing some shopping etc etc.

At this point mine and James’s plans differed. I really wanted to head to the coast, the Indian ocean and all its spectacular glory. James wanted to stay inland and head to Zimbabwe. We shook hands and agreed to meet up in South Africa.

So off I set, 300 miles to my first coastal destination, Vilanculo.  A fantastic beach town and stunning coastline. I checked myself into “Boabab” campsite/bar and got comfortable. I met so many cool people, hung out on the beach, learnt to Scuba dive, chilled out of boats eating Calamari, partying in “Afrobar”  and getting back into running on the pristine white beaches. This was the life and a well deserved break from all the riding.

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Ten days later, I finally managed to drag my arse out of there and head 200 miles down the coast to yet another beach location. More touristy and “backpacker” than the last place but equally as pretty. I booked myself in for a Scuba dive and it true “me” style, I got some faulty equipment, ran out of air 20 metres underwater and had to so an emergency shared air ascent.. Life is never easy when you’re me. LOL!!  On the dive I met a great bunch of South Africans who treated me to my first “braii” and good South African wine.. Ahhhhhhh Life is good!!

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Alas, I had to move on eventually as I was meeting James in South Africa in a few days. Off I went and headed to the Mozambique capital, Maputo.

The road was smooth and modern and the miles fell away. The ony disruptions were the rain storms which completely soak you through in 30 seconds! Still, I am British and used to the rain on two wheels.

Rolling into Maputo I thought I was going to hate the place. The outskirts were dirty and derelict with lots of traffic. I headed straight to the centre and to “The base” backpackers where things changed quickly. What a lovely city. Very European and cosmopolitan with just enough African dirt and chaos to keep it different. You could really see the Portuguese money and influence there. It’s a shame the Africans have left a lot of it to go to shit once they kicked out the Portuguese.   I spent three great days hanging out with the guys I met at the hostel, watching Jazz bands and exploring the city. I could of spent a good while longer there but time was ticking on and I had a border to cross…

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So, after a few toll roads, long lines at the border and multiple passport stamps I made it through the border to South Africa..

BLIMEY! What a transition. I was in the west again.  Modern structures, working ATM’s, good fast roads, KFC’s, etc etc!!

I’m now in Nelspruit in a very modern hostel. They have a large LCD TV, hot water and a toaster. WOOOO!!! I bought a good bottle of red wine for £3 and sat down to watch the FA Cup games on a large TV. I realised I hadn’t seen any TV in five months which wasn’t a burnt out 14” portable TV with 50 other people huddled around it…

So, this is it … I’m in South Africa. I guess it’s all easy now!! Although, knowing me, there will be plenty of surprises to follow.



5 Responses to “Mozambique”


  1. Li Clark  Says:

    Well Done Ted,
    You made it, great blog and article in ABR.
    Are you going to continue up the west coast i wonder? Its cold and wet on Merseyside as i type. Stay safe.
    Li.


  2. Ted  Says:

    hey Li !!

    I wish I could afford it… Unless you want to sponsor me :)

    Glad you enjoyed the article. There “Should”be more to come..


  3. tenbears  Says:

    Nothing since January?

    Status?


  4. Ted Magnum  Says:

    Apologies… I’m having problems with my website and little time to fix it.


  5. Ted Magnum  Says:

    Sorry…. Sorted now :)



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